Sentoa Digest, Vol 66, Issue 1

Peter Jenkin ladybug.peter at gmail.com
Wed Nov 2 09:36:53 EDT 2016


Re: Sentoa Digest, Vol 65, Issue 15 (Nathan Dimock)

On our NT-26 we have a diesel/110V hot water heater installed on the
starboard side under the aft cockpit.  It provides hot water to the galley
and head as well as heat through a heating loop that's controlled via a
programmable thermostat.  It consists of a circulating pump and radiators
that have fans blowing through them to heat the forward cabin and the main
saloon.  If you run it all the time in the winter it doesn't freeze up.
The previous owner installed this system and lived aboard in Maine in the
winter.  I've used it in the late fall here in Connecticut, and can attest
that it works very well.
Pete Jenkin
Badger, NT26-119

On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 11:59 PM, <sentoa-request at lists.sentoa.org> wrote:

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>    1. Re: Sentoa Digest, Vol 65, Issue 15 (Nathan Dimock)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 13:05:44 -0400
> From: Nathan Dimock <nadimock at gmail.com>
> To: sentoa at lists.sentoa.org
> Subject: Re: Sentoa Digest, Vol 65, Issue 15
> Message-ID:
>         <CABuozOyW2q8QrJ9fyCSNPM8LfyROyANKs_7jAC5t5E8TMSO7tg at mail.
> gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks, Al.  We actually have a Cummins block heater that is set on a
> thermostat, and when it gets really cold, we turn it on with the ER hatches
> open as you describe (we do cover the engine vents during the coldest
> months of Jan and Feb).  We also plug in the block heater for an hour or
> two before going for a ride when air temps get below 50 or so (better for
> the engine and gives us instant heat from the bus heater as soon as we
> depart the dock).  What I want to accomplish is a diesel heating system
> that doesn't rely on the generator and that will work once it is too cold
> to use the reverse cycle heat.  Since we already have a coolant loop from
> the engine that goes to the hot water heater and the bus heater, it seemed
> like a simpler option to go with a hydronic heater that taps into that
> loop, rather than a forced hot air system that would require new duct
> work.  We are very aware of the down side to having potential additional
> points of failure in the coolant loop, but it seems to me that it is a very
> slight concern given that we already have the hot water and bus heaters on
> that loop.  My thought was to add a hydronic furnace to the loop (with
> related 12 volt power and diesel fuel runs), then use the current bus
> heater as the heat exhanger so we would not need to add any ducts.  We also
> have limited space in the ER for a forced air system, as our boat has a
> large house bank, generator and air compressor for the whistle that take up
> pretty much all the available space on the sides of the engine.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nathan
> Carolena II
> 2002 NT 32/34
> Washington, DC
>
>
> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> > From: Alfred McKenney <aem28 at verizon.net>
> > To: "South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA)" <
> > sentoa at lists.sentoa.org>
> > Cc: Nathan Dimock <nadimock at gmail.com>
> > Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 00:57:24 +0000 (UTC)
> > Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Diesel Heating Systems
> >
> > Nathan,
> >
> > it sounds to ne as though you are breaking ne mantras of fixing a Tug,:
> > "Make as few joints as possible." - Also, "Don't spend Bucks
> unnecessarily"
> > and "Avoid complexity."
> >
> > ------------------------------------------
> >
> > If you go  to your local Cummins supplier, or Cummins on line, for $25
> you
> > can buy an Engine Block Heater, just made for the job. You install it
> > permanently in the pre-threaded hole on the starboard side of the engine
> > which is temporarily covered by a freeze plug, which you just remove.
> >
> > I have been using that for the last three years to keep my tug from
> > freezing, and a bit warm, with excellent results.
> >
> > When cold weather arrives, I follow this procedure:
> >
> > I plug up the engine room vents. Then I plug in the 750 Watt Heater,
> > Finally, I open up the ER hatches and plug in a fan to circulate air
> > throughout the boat.
> >
> > On the Chesapeake Bay, depending on the ambient temperature, my 220
> engine
> > gradually reaches 120F to 130F. I check once in a while to make sure
> > everything is OK and the boat, of course. I take an engine, interior and
> > exterior temperature readings..
> >
> > ------------------------------------------
> >  I you are worried about the possibility of overheating, as you might be
> > in a warmer climate, you can buy an Outdoor Pipe Heater Thermostat for
> $15
> > at your DIY Home Center. This is set for about 40F. You plug it inti the
> > electrical outlet, then plug the Heater cord into it.
> >
> > Al McKenney
> > Nordic Star  32-178
> >
> >
> >
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