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Cummins aftercooler service

JH
Jonathan Handelman
Mon, Feb 2, 2026 6:41 PM

Good afternoon everyone,

Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins
let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How
much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit
I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.)

Thanks,

-Jonathan

Cyclops
NT37-138
Freeport, Maine

Good afternoon everyone, Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.) Thanks, -Jonathan Cyclops NT37-138 Freeport, Maine
CC
Cara Clark
Mon, Feb 2, 2026 8:04 PM

How often do you service the aftercooler? I have a NT 32 with Cummins 6BTA.
Thanks!
Cara
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 2, 2026, at 12:41 PM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:


Good afternoon everyone,

Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.)

Thanks,

-Jonathan

Cyclops
NT37-138
Freeport, Maine


Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org

How often do you service the aftercooler? I have a NT 32 with Cummins 6BTA. Thanks! Cara Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 2, 2026, at 12:41 PM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa <sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote: > >  > Good afternoon everyone, > > Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.) > > Thanks, > > -Jonathan > > Cyclops > NT37-138 > Freeport, Maine > _______________________________________________ > Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org > To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org
ES
Eric Swanson
Mon, Feb 2, 2026 8:24 PM

If you have a 250 or 270 hp (6bta like mine) it's antifreeze cooled and needs little attention, I believe 330 and up hp ratings are raw water cooled and should be disassembled routinely (3 years?) . I believe I saw an article by Tony Athens of Seaboard Marine with detailed instructions.

Eric Swanson
Gone Remote
NT32-258
Wilmington NC


From: Cara Clark via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Sent: Monday, February 2, 2026 3:04 PM
To: sentoa@lists.sentoa.org sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Cc: Cara Clark ccboatergal@gmail.com
Subject: [Sentoa] Re: Cummins aftercooler service

How often do you service the aftercooler? I have a NT 32 with Cummins 6BTA.
Thanks!
Cara
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 2, 2026, at 12:41 PM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:


Good afternoon everyone,

Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.)

Thanks,

-Jonathan

Cyclops
NT37-138
Freeport, Maine


Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org


Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org

If you have a 250 or 270 hp (6bta like mine) it's antifreeze cooled and needs little attention, I believe 330 and up hp ratings are raw water cooled and should be disassembled routinely (3 years?) . I believe I saw an article by Tony Athens of Seaboard Marine with detailed instructions. Eric Swanson Gone Remote NT32-258 Wilmington NC ________________________________ From: Cara Clark via Sentoa <sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> Sent: Monday, February 2, 2026 3:04 PM To: sentoa@lists.sentoa.org <sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> Cc: Cara Clark <ccboatergal@gmail.com> Subject: [Sentoa] Re: Cummins aftercooler service How often do you service the aftercooler? I have a NT 32 with Cummins 6BTA. Thanks! Cara Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 2, 2026, at 12:41 PM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa <sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote: > >  > Good afternoon everyone, > > Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.) > > Thanks, > > -Jonathan > > Cyclops > NT37-138 > Freeport, Maine > _______________________________________________ > Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org > To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org
GF
Gene Fuller
Mon, Feb 2, 2026 8:34 PM

Jonathon,

I have done that service several times on our NT37. Since our hull number is 136 I expect the procedure is identical.

Time is difficult to estimate, since experience level counts, and any problems can extend the time indefinitely.

I would estimate under an hour to remove everything. Disassembly can take 10 minutes or a long time, depending on how "stuck" the core is. If your aftercooler has never been serviced, it could be a challenge to get it apart.

Cleaning can take an hour or more, depending on what you need. Make sure you do not soak the entire core in dilute HCl, because the outside fins are aluminum on this vintage cooler. If you cap one end with a large rubber drainage pipe cover and stand the core on end you can fill the tubes with acid. You can also use a rod to clean the tubes.

The biggest concern is corrosion of the aluminum housing. It is quite likely that you will find some level of corrosion. If it is on a sealing surface it will need to be dealt with. This includes the outer faces (where the o-rings go) as well as the bore that contains the ends of the core. It is possible to remove a small amount from the faces with careful filing or sanding. Be sure that you do not make to housing too short to fit the core, including slack for possible thermal expansion.

If everything looks OK (or is made OK) then you can assemble and test. The pros advise that you test the core first, then assemble and test the entire aftercooler. I choose to assemble first and then test everything at once. The downside is that if there is a leak it will be necessary to disassemble and test the core separately. This takes time (and money) for a professional, but I have plenty of time. The upside is that only one test rig (for the entire assembly) needs to be goobered together. (technical term!)

Make sure you carefully select the correct o-rings when assembling (I need the large ones) and use lots of Metalube grease everywhere metal touches metal.

Reinstallation takes a bit more time than removal, but still should be no more than an hour or so.

No special tools are required. Ordinary metric wrenches/sockets will do.

I presume you are familiar with Tony's instructions and videos at Seaboard Marine. If not, be sure to look there.

Regards,

Gene Fuller

Yorkshire Rose

Punta Gorda, FL

NT37-136

On 2/2/2026 1:41 PM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa wrote:

Good afternoon everyone,

Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.)

Thanks,

-Jonathan

Cyclops

NT37-138

Freeport, Maine

<pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________
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KB
Kelly Britz
Mon, Feb 2, 2026 8:54 PM

Jonathan,
Difficulty entirely depends on how long it’s been since it was serviced last. Good owner DIY project if you are mechanically inclined. Messy but entirely doable.
Recommended aftercooler maintenance interval in salt water is 2 years regardless on engine hours.
Takes me a few hours but I’ve been religious on the every 2 yrs.
Nothing special for tools, a good work surface and room to make a mess.
Buckets are important and a place to clean something that will likely be nasty.
Having a vise on heavy bench helps because of the irregular shape.

Sbmar.com is an outstanding resource.  here’s a link to their article on the subject from their Tony’s Tips knowledge base.
https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/
[aftercooler-assembly-3.jpg]
Cummins Marine Aftercooler Maintenancehttps://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/
sbmar.comhttps://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/

My 2 cents:

This sucker is heavier than you think.

Try to work on it horizontally if you can.

Do not unbolt both bronze end caps until you are prepared to attempt to slide the core.

The bronze tube bundle core is fragile and very expensive, if it was serviced properly last time, will slide right onto the floor!

There are tricks if your core doesn’t slide out easily, email me if you get frustrated.

Never re-use the old o-rings!

Be advised different model years use different o-rings and it’s not obvious looking at the deformed old ones whether yours needs the thick ones or the thin ones - use sbmar.com resources to tell the difference and which ones to buy (Cummins once sold me the wrong ones for my engine no.)

I use a local radiator shop that will pressure test my aftercooler once I’ve serviced and re- assembled it. Good peace of mind to keep salt water out of the engine.

Good luck.
Kelly Britz
SANDPIPER, NT37-042, Seattle/Edmonds

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 2, 2026, at 10:42 AM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:


Good afternoon everyone,

Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.)

Thanks,

-Jonathan

Cyclops
NT37-138
Freeport, Maine


Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org

Jonathan, Difficulty entirely depends on how long it’s been since it was serviced last. Good owner DIY project if you are mechanically inclined. Messy but entirely doable. Recommended aftercooler maintenance interval in salt water is 2 years regardless on engine hours. Takes me a few hours but I’ve been religious on the every 2 yrs. Nothing special for tools, a good work surface and room to make a mess. Buckets are important and a place to clean something that will likely be nasty. Having a vise on heavy bench helps because of the irregular shape. Sbmar.com is an outstanding resource. here’s a link to their article on the subject from their Tony’s Tips knowledge base. <https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/> [aftercooler-assembly-3.jpg] Cummins Marine Aftercooler Maintenance<https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/> sbmar.com<https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/> My 2 cents: This sucker is heavier than you think. Try to work on it horizontally if you can. Do not unbolt both bronze end caps until you are prepared to attempt to slide the core. The bronze tube bundle core is fragile and very expensive, if it was serviced properly last time, will slide right onto the floor! There are tricks if your core doesn’t slide out easily, email me if you get frustrated. Never re-use the old o-rings! Be advised different model years use different o-rings and it’s not obvious looking at the deformed old ones whether yours needs the thick ones or the thin ones - use sbmar.com resources to tell the difference and which ones to buy (Cummins once sold me the wrong ones for my engine no.) I use a local radiator shop that will pressure test my aftercooler once I’ve serviced and re- assembled it. Good peace of mind to keep salt water out of the engine. Good luck. Kelly Britz SANDPIPER, NT37-042, Seattle/Edmonds Sent from my iPhone On Feb 2, 2026, at 10:42 AM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa <sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote:  Good afternoon everyone, Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.) Thanks, -Jonathan Cyclops NT37-138 Freeport, Maine _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org
PL
Paul Lever
Mon, Feb 2, 2026 8:58 PM

Lots of good info here
https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/

Paul

On Mon, Feb 2, 2026, 12:04 PM Cara Clark via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
wrote:

How often do you service the aftercooler? I have a NT 32 with Cummins 6BTA.
Thanks!
Cara
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 2, 2026, at 12:41 PM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa <


Good afternoon everyone,

Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins

let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How
much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit
I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.)

Thanks,

-Jonathan

Cyclops
NT37-138
Freeport, Maine


Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org


Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org

Lots of good info here https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/ Paul On Mon, Feb 2, 2026, 12:04 PM Cara Clark via Sentoa <sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote: > How often do you service the aftercooler? I have a NT 32 with Cummins 6BTA. > Thanks! > Cara > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Feb 2, 2026, at 12:41 PM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa < > sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote: > > > >  > > Good afternoon everyone, > > > > Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins > let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How > much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit > I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.) > > > > Thanks, > > > > -Jonathan > > > > Cyclops > > NT37-138 > > Freeport, Maine > > _______________________________________________ > > Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org > > To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org > _______________________________________________ > Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org > To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org >
BM
Ben McCafferty
Mon, Feb 2, 2026 9:25 PM

Hi Jonathan,
Others have given good tips and I add my endorsement of Tony’s Tips.

I’d add—have a couple of 2-gallon buckets and a 5-gallon one—you can wedge the 2 gallon under the after cooler and catch salt water when you pull the lower zinc. Put the zinc back as needed to dump the 2 into the 5.

No one has asked/mentioned, but I hope you are intending to do all three heat exchangers at the same time, unless the others were already done?

The others would be:
--the coolant filled heat exchanger (on the starboard side, has a zinc in it in the forward end)—a good time to change coolant, as you’ll need to drain most of it.
—the gear reduction raw water heat exchanger (aft on the engine, above the gear)

(For the matter, probably need to do the genset one too?)

The reduction gear exchanger does not have a zinc, at least not on my hull (37-202). Tony sells a replacement cooler that is really well made and accepts two zincs. Looking at his, and at my old one, a person could easily drill/tap a couple of zincs into the original one if desired. (I bought his, and carry the cleaned/tested old one as a spare).

Most importantly* Learn from my mistake and bad luck (I seem to say that a lot on this forum!)—the water feed to my prop shaft seal is a barb off the gear cooler housing. It had long since clogged with salt/etc. but since I rarely go above 1600rpm, it never was a problem since the water in the seal didn’t get drawn out at higher speed. Once I hauled the boat, and the seal drained, and I didn’t burp the seal upon launch….yeah, you guessed it, toasted the shaft seal and had both water and smoke entering the boat at the same time. Fun day for sure!

So—check the water feed to your seal, if yours is equipped like mine. PSS also sells a small paddle wheel indicator (with a window), which I’ve installed inline between the gear cooler and the PSS. It’s in the engine room, so I can tell at a glance if water is flowing to the seal or not. DM me if you want more on this, and maybe search up my old thread on this problem and the chain reaction it caused.

Best of luck on the service!

Ben

On Feb 2, 2026, at 12:54, Kelly Britz via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:

Jonathan,
Difficulty entirely depends on how long it’s been since it was serviced last. Good owner DIY project if you are mechanically inclined. Messy but entirely doable.
Recommended aftercooler maintenance interval in salt water is 2 years regardless on engine hours.
Takes me a few hours but I’ve been religious on the every 2 yrs.
Nothing special for tools, a good work surface and room to make a mess.
Buckets are important and a place to clean something that will likely be nasty.
Having a vise on heavy bench helps because of the irregular shape.

Sbmar.com is an outstanding resource.  here’s a link to their article on the subject from their Tony’s Tips knowledge base.
https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/

My 2 cents:

This sucker is heavier than you think.

Try to work on it horizontally if you can.

Do not unbolt both bronze end caps until you are prepared to attempt to slide the core.

The bronze tube bundle core is fragile and very expensive, if it was serviced properly last time, will slide right onto the floor!

There are tricks if your core doesn’t slide out easily, email me if you get frustrated.

Never re-use the old o-rings!

Be advised different model years use different o-rings and it’s not obvious looking at the deformed old ones whether yours needs the thick ones or the thin ones - use sbmar.com resources to tell the difference and which ones to buy (Cummins once sold me the wrong ones for my engine no.)

I use a local radiator shop that will pressure test my aftercooler once I’ve serviced and re- assembled it. Good peace of mind to keep salt water out of the engine.

Good luck.
Kelly Britz
SANDPIPER, NT37-042, Seattle/Edmonds

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 2, 2026, at 10:42 AM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:


Good afternoon everyone,

Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.)

Thanks,

-Jonathan

Cyclops
NT37-138
Freeport, Maine


Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org


Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org

Hi Jonathan, Others have given good tips and I add my endorsement of Tony’s Tips. I’d add—have a couple of 2-gallon buckets and a 5-gallon one—you can wedge the 2 gallon under the after cooler and catch salt water when you pull the lower zinc. Put the zinc back as needed to dump the 2 into the 5. No one has asked/mentioned, but I hope you are intending to do all three heat exchangers at the same time, unless the others were already done? The others would be: --the coolant filled heat exchanger (on the starboard side, has a zinc in it in the forward end)—a good time to change coolant, as you’ll need to drain most of it. —the gear reduction raw water heat exchanger (aft on the engine, above the gear) (For the matter, probably need to do the genset one too?) The reduction gear exchanger does not have a zinc, at least not on my hull (37-202). Tony sells a replacement cooler that is really well made and accepts two zincs. Looking at his, and at my old one, a person could easily drill/tap a couple of zincs into the original one if desired. (I bought his, and carry the cleaned/tested old one as a spare). **Most importantly*** Learn from my mistake and bad luck (I seem to say that a lot on this forum!)—the water feed to my prop shaft seal is a barb off the gear cooler housing. It had long since clogged with salt/etc. but since I rarely go above 1600rpm, it never was a problem since the water in the seal didn’t get drawn out at higher speed. Once I hauled the boat, and the seal drained, and I didn’t burp the seal upon launch….yeah, you guessed it, toasted the shaft seal and had both water and smoke entering the boat at the same time. Fun day for sure! So—check the water feed to your seal, if yours is equipped like mine. PSS also sells a small paddle wheel indicator (with a window), which I’ve installed inline between the gear cooler and the PSS. It’s in the engine room, so I can tell at a glance if water is flowing to the seal or not. DM me if you want more on this, and maybe search up my old thread on this problem and the chain reaction it caused. Best of luck on the service! Ben > On Feb 2, 2026, at 12:54, Kelly Britz via Sentoa <sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote: > > Jonathan, > Difficulty entirely depends on how long it’s been since it was serviced last. Good owner DIY project if you are mechanically inclined. Messy but entirely doable. > Recommended aftercooler maintenance interval in salt water is 2 years regardless on engine hours. > Takes me a few hours but I’ve been religious on the every 2 yrs. > Nothing special for tools, a good work surface and room to make a mess. > Buckets are important and a place to clean something that will likely be nasty. > Having a vise on heavy bench helps because of the irregular shape. > > Sbmar.com is an outstanding resource. here’s a link to their article on the subject from their Tony’s Tips knowledge base. > https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/ > > My 2 cents: > > This sucker is heavier than you think. > > Try to work on it horizontally if you can. > > Do not unbolt both bronze end caps until you are prepared to attempt to slide the core. > > The bronze tube bundle core is fragile and very expensive, if it was serviced properly last time, will slide right onto the floor! > > There are tricks if your core doesn’t slide out easily, email me if you get frustrated. > > Never re-use the old o-rings! > > Be advised different model years use different o-rings and it’s not obvious looking at the deformed old ones whether yours needs the thick ones or the thin ones - use sbmar.com resources to tell the difference and which ones to buy (Cummins once sold me the wrong ones for my engine no.) > > I use a local radiator shop that will pressure test my aftercooler once I’ve serviced and re- assembled it. Good peace of mind to keep salt water out of the engine. > > Good luck. > Kelly Britz > SANDPIPER, NT37-042, Seattle/Edmonds > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 2, 2026, at 10:42 AM, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa <sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote: >> >>  >> Good afternoon everyone, >> >> Could someone who has done the aftercooler service on their NT37 Cummins let me know what I ought to know before addressing the service myself? (How much time it is likely to take, what special tools I need, what service kit I should look at, tips and tricks, etc.) >> >> Thanks, >> >> -Jonathan >> >> Cyclops >> NT37-138 >> Freeport, Maine >> _______________________________________________ >> Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org >> To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org > _______________________________________________ > Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org > To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org