Changing engine fuel filter  on my 2003 6BTA 330 for the first time. I dont see a bleed screw on my filter housing. There is a pipe plug on top. Is the the bleed? Also i don't see a bleed screw on the injector pump. Looking for some helpHenry Gamsby LYRA NT37-90Fairhaven, MASent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

Henry,
To make this job easier, I installed the "squeeze bulb" fuel priming system from Seaboard Marine (sbmar.com). The procedure:
Shut off fuel tank. Drain Racor or carefully take it off. If no Squeeze bulb priming system, refill the Racor with clean, new diesel through the external holes (easy to fill if you cover the centre hole). My Racor was the screw on canister type. Reinstall.
Place a zip lock bag around the on engine filter and remove. Make sure both "O rings are removed. Sometimes the one in the filter lip can stick on the engine filter housing causing a "double O ring" resulting in a leak. Take a new filter, and use new diesel to lube the O ring and install the included "new screw thread" seal (not the correct term I am sure). Refill the new filter carefully as before with new diesel covering the centre hole. You must fill this filter slowly allowing it to completely fill prior to installation.
Open fuel tank. My Racor had a bleed screw. Open the bleed screw and use the manual fuel pump on the injector pump and pump until a small stream of fuel (with no air bubbles) comes out. Then close the breed screw clean up any diesel. Pump the injector pump until it squeeks and then a few more. Start the engine. It should start and run fine after a short period of minor stumbling. If it will not start. Try advancing the throttle to wide open (in neutral) and crank. As soon as it starts throttle back to idle. With the squeeze bulb, you can more effectively move the fuel, especially if you can reach the squeeze bulb and the on engine pump (or have a helper), but that is not essential (to do both at once). Also, you don't have to "prefill" the Racor if you have the squeeze bulb.
Other than the WOT start (once) I never had a problem needing "all the other bleeding" after a filter change.
Good luck.
Tom Easterbrook
formerly Pilitak NT 37-068
Nanaimo, BC

From: hgamsby via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Sent: July 18, 2021 11:34 AM
To: sentoa@lists sentoa. org sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Cc: hgamsby hgamsby@gmail.com
Subject: [Sentoa] Bleeding after Fuel Filter Change

Changing engine fuel filter  on my 2003 6BTA 330 for the first time. I dont see a bleed screw on my filter housing. There is a pipe plug on top. Is the the bleed? Also i don't see a bleed screw on the injector pump. Looking for some help

Henry Gamsby
LYRA NT37-90
Fairhaven, MA

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

may i suggest that you make things easier and install an electric fuel pump between the out of the Racor and the line that goes to the engine filter . the location of the bleed screw on my 6bta 250hp is rith over the engine pump .  In a message dated 7/18/2021 6:16:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, sentoa@lists.sentoa.org writes: 
Henry,To make this job easier, I installed the "squeeze bulb" fuel priming system from Seaboard Marine (sbmar.com). The procedure:Shut off fuel tank. Drain Racor or carefully take it off. If no Squeeze bulb priming system, refill the Racor with clean, new diesel through the external holes (easy to fill if you cover the centre hole). My Racor was the screw on canister type. Reinstall.Place a zip lock bag around the on engine filter and remove. Make sure both "O rings are removed. Sometimes the one in the filter lip can stick on the engine filter housing causing a "double O ring" resulting in a leak. Take a new filter, and use new diesel to lube the O ring and install the included "new screw thread" seal (not the correct term I am sure). Refill the new filter carefully as before with new diesel covering the centre hole. You must fill this filter slowly allowing it to completely fill prior to installation. Open fuel tank. My Racor had a bleed screw. Open the bleed screw and use the manual fuel pump on the injector pump and pump until a small stream of fuel (with no air bubbles) comes out. Then close the breed screw clean up any diesel. Pump the injector pump until it squeeks and then a few more. Start the engine. It should start and run fine after a short period of minor stumbling. If it will not start. Try advancing the throttle to wide open (in neutral) and crank. As soon as it starts throttle back to idle. With the squeeze bulb, you can more effectively move the fuel, especially if you can reach the squeeze bulb and the on engine pump (or have a helper), but that is not essential (to do both at once). Also, you don't have to "prefill" the Racor if you have the squeeze bulb.Other than the WOT start (once) I never had a problem needing "all the other bleeding" after a filter change.Good luck.Tom Easterbrookformerly Pilitak NT 37-068Nanaimo, BC  From: hgamsby via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Sent: July 18, 2021 11:34 AM
To: sentoa@lists sentoa. org sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Cc: hgamsby hgamsby@gmail.com
Subject: [Sentoa] Bleeding after Fuel Filter Change Changing engine fuel filter  on my 2003 6BTA 330 for the first time. I dont see a bleed screw on my filter housing. There is a pipe plug on top. Is the the bleed? Also i don't see a bleed screw on the injector pump. Looking for some help Henry Gamsby LYRA NT37-90Fairhaven, MA   Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________
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