I am losing the wresting match. Miserably.

Who has a trick for changing out the wet exhaust? 220 Cummins Diesel. 5inch metal reinforced. About 36 inches long.

I am thinking of a grinder and hack saw? Cutting out some notches perhaps once I hack saw off the middle section?

Also, does the replacement have to be metal reinforced?

Jason Resch
Nordic Tug
Hot Sauce
32’
Scappoose, Oregon

Jason,
Sorry, not aware of all the NT32 differences you are working with but our original NT37 wet-exhaust hose (not wire reinforced) had also become extremely well bonded and was very hard to loosen - in our case, to the fiberglass inlet to our wet-lift muffler in the galley bilge.  Our taking off the Cummins exhaust elbow on the other end of the hose made it a whole lot easier to eventually loosen the end on the fiberglass.  I would also point out the wet-exhaust hose on our NT37 makes that connection below our water line, our water-lift muffler is a theoretical stop gap but there isn't really that much free-board in it at the best of times so care is certainly required if your situation similar.  Sorry can't help more, sounds like a tough one, good luck

Regarding possible replacement, our 2001 boat came with black low-ish temp wet-exhaust hose.  It was not wire reinforced like yours.  Not sure what NT's position is on why they chose your particular exhaust hose but we replaced ours with Trident's high-temp rated (also non-wire reinforced) blue silicon wet-exhaust hose.  It was extremely pliable so much easier to install.

This is from Seattle's Fisheries Supply's website:  (pretty sure ours is 6" but here's the 5" info) Trident 5" ID x 3 ft. hose SKU: 79851 Item ID: HOS 202V5000-36 @ $330
This Trident blue silicon wet-exhaust hose is rated for 350F continuous duty and as I recall is also Coast Guard certified.  We put a band style high-temp sensor/alarm on our hose after thoroughly temperature probing everything.  The hottest point on the surface of the hose never got over 135F running at 2K for 15 minutes - could get higher but we rarely run that high to begin with and the alarm hasn't gone off in another 3500 engine hours.

And if anyone else reading this has an older NT/Cummins with that same factory stock black, smooth fabric-like rubber-ish surface, wet-exhaust hose we had, I would strongly suggest you get yours checked !

As I documented in the article you will find in SENTOA's maintenance section ("Cummins Wet-Exhaust Elbow Issues on Early NT37's" - click on the picture to get to the 5 page article), that original black wet-exhaust hose had completely internally delaminated, fractured and failed !   It WAS NOT OBVIOUS from a casual external inspection.  We removed the hose only to facilitate inspection of that stock white Cummins wet-exhaust elbow which has resulted so many turbo failures on 6BT and 6BTA's as well as engine rebuilds.  We had no idea our wet-exhaust hose was so close to possibly sinking our boat.  Another naive "it has no moving parts, looks fine, it's not on Cummins suggested maintenance list, so it can't possibly need maintenance" issue.

Again, Jason - good luck with the rest your project, hope everything else goes much easier.

kind regards, Kelly BritzSandpiper, NT37-042, Edmonds/Seattle

On Sunday, December 26, 2021, 7:00:46 PM PST, hescher via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:

I am losing the wresting match. Miserably.

Who has a trick for changing out the wet exhaust? 220 Cummins Diesel. 5inch metal reinforced. About 36 inches long.

I am thinking of a grinder and hack saw? Cutting out some notches perhaps once I hack saw off the middle section?

Also, does the replacement have to be metal reinforced?

Jason Resch
Nordic Tug
Hot Sauce
32’
Scappoose, Oregon

Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org

Completely agree with Kelly. Right after purchasing Pilitak (NT37-068 (2002)) when she was 14 years old, I installed an Aqualarm raw water flow alarm and a Borel exhaust hose overheat alarm. The exhaust alarm went off on our second trip alerting me to a totally undetectable (visually) problem with corrosion in my stock Cummins (white) exhaust elbow. It was corroded through internally, and was going to allow saltwater to enter my turbo, and was definitely overheating my exhaust hose. I found Kelly's article and followed his advice replacing my exhaust elbow and hose (used the blue hose Kelly talked about). I got LUCKY that my alarm alerted me. Otherwise I could have needed a new turbo, or worse, yet, an engine (or rebuild).  THESE ARE NOT "NO MAINTENANCE" items.
If you want to "play it safe", spend some time and check out Kelly's article, and maybe sbmar.com for more info.
Best of the Season,
Tom Easterbrook
formerly Pilitak Nt 37-068
Nanimo, BC

From: Kelly Britz via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Sent: December 27, 2021 11:14 AM
To: hescher via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Cc: Kelly Britz kbritzkbritz@yahoo.com
Subject: [Sentoa] Re: Wrestling Match: Wet Exhaust vs Human

Jason,
Sorry, not aware of all the NT32 differences you are working with but our original NT37 wet-exhaust hose (not wire reinforced) had also become extremely well bonded and was very hard to loosen - in our case, to the fiberglass inlet to our wet-lift muffler in the galley bilge.  Our taking off the Cummins exhaust elbow on the other end of the hose made it a whole lot easier to eventually loosen the end on the fiberglass.  I would also point out the wet-exhaust hose on our NT37 makes that connection below our water line, our water-lift muffler is a theoretical stop gap but there isn't really that much free-board in it at the best of times so care is certainly required if your situation similar.  Sorry can't help more, sounds like a tough one, good luck

Regarding possible replacement, our 2001 boat came with black low-ish temp wet-exhaust hose.  It was not wire reinforced like yours.  Not sure what NT's position is on why they chose your particular exhaust hose but we replaced ours with Trident's high-temp rated (also non-wire reinforced) blue silicon wet-exhaust hose.  It was extremely pliable so much easier to install.

This is from Seattle's Fisheries Supply's website:  (pretty sure ours is 6" but here's the 5" info) Trident 5" ID x 3 ft. hose SKU: 79851 Item ID: HOS 202V5000-36 @ $330

This Trident blue silicon wet-exhaust hose is rated for 350F continuous duty and as I recall is also Coast Guard certified.  We put a band style high-temp sensor/alarm on our hose after thoroughly temperature probing everything.  The hottest point on the surface of the hose never got over 135F running at 2K for 15 minutes - could get higher but we rarely run that high to begin with and the alarm hasn't gone off in another 3500 engine hours.

And if anyone else reading this has an older NT/Cummins with that same factory stock black, smooth fabric-like rubber-ish surface, wet-exhaust hose we had, I would strongly suggest you get yours checked !

As I documented in the article you will find in SENTOA's maintenance section ("Cummins Wet-Exhaust Elbow Issues on Early NT37's" - click on the picture to get to the 5 page article), that original black wet-exhaust hose had completely internally delaminated, fractured and failed !  It WAS NOT OBVIOUS from a casual external inspection.  We removed the hose only to facilitate inspection of that stock white Cummins wet-exhaust elbow which has resulted so many turbo failures on 6BT and 6BTA's as well as engine rebuilds.  We had no idea our wet-exhaust hose was so close to possibly sinking our boat.  Another naive "it has no moving parts, looks fine, it's not on Cummins suggested maintenance list, so it can't possibly need maintenance" issue.

Again, Jason - good luck with the rest your project, hope everything else goes much easier.

kind regards, Kelly Britz
Sandpiper, NT37-042, Edmonds/Seattle

On Sunday, December 26, 2021, 7:00:46 PM PST, hescher via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:

I am losing the wresting match. Miserably.

Who has a trick for changing out the wet exhaust? 220 Cummins Diesel. 5inch metal reinforced. About 36 inches long.

I am thinking of a grinder and hack saw? Cutting out some notches perhaps once I hack saw off the middle section?

Also, does the replacement have to be metal reinforced?

Jason Resch
Nordic Tug
Hot Sauce
32’
Scappoose, Oregon

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To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.orgmailto:sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org

i had my 32 -36 since 1989 and sold it in 2019 and never had an issue nor replaced anything other than the elbow at the engine on a 6bta5.9

In a message dated 12/27/2021 3:02:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, sentoa@lists.sentoa.org writes: 
Completely agree with Kelly. Right after purchasing Pilitak (NT37-068 (2002)) when she was 14 years old, I installed an Aqualarm raw water flow alarm and a Borel exhaust hose overheat alarm. The exhaust alarm went off on our second trip alerting me to a totally undetectable (visually) problem with corrosion in my stock Cummins (white) exhaust elbow. It was corroded through internally, and was going to allow saltwater to enter my turbo, and was definitely overheating my exhaust hose. I found Kelly's article and followed his advice replacing my exhaust elbow and hose (used the blue hose Kelly talked about). I got LUCKY that my alarm alerted me. Otherwise I could have needed a new turbo, or worse, yet, an engine (or rebuild).  THESE ARE NOT "NO MAINTENANCE" items.If you want to "play it safe", spend some time and check out Kelly's article, and maybe sbmar.com for more info.Best of the Season,Tom Easterbrookformerly Pilitak Nt 37-068Nanimo, BC  From: Kelly Britz via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Sent: December 27, 2021 11:14 AM
To: hescher via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Cc: Kelly Britz kbritzkbritz@yahoo.com
Subject: [Sentoa] Re: Wrestling Match: Wet Exhaust vs Human  Jason, Sorry, not aware of all the NT32 differences you are working with but our original NT37 wet-exhaust hose (not wire reinforced) had also become extremely well bonded and was very hard to loosen - in our case, to the fiberglass inlet to our wet-lift muffler in the galley bilge.  Our taking off the Cummins exhaust elbow on the other end of the hose made it a whole lot easier to eventually loosen the end on the fiberglass.  I would also point out the wet-exhaust hose on our NT37 makes that connection below our water line, our water-lift muffler is a theoretical stop gap but there isn't really that much free-board in it at the best of times so care is certainly required if your situation similar.  Sorry can't help more, sounds like a tough one, good luck Regarding possible replacement, our 2001 boat came with black low-ish temp wet-exhaust hose.  It was not wire reinforced like yours.  Not sure what NT's position is on why they chose your particular exhaust hose but we replaced ours with Trident's high-temp rated (also non-wire reinforced) blue silicon wet-exhaust hose.  It was extremely pliable so much easier to install. This is from Seattle's Fisheries Supply's website:  (pretty sure ours is 6" but here's the 5" info) Trident 5" ID x 3 ft. hose SKU: 79851 Item ID: HOS 202V5000-36 @ $330 This Trident blue silicon wet-exhaust hose is rated for 350F continuous duty and as I recall is also Coast Guard certified.  We put a band style high-temp sensor/alarm on our hose after thoroughly temperature probing everything.  The hottest point on the surface of the hose never got over 135F running at 2K for 15 minutes - could get higher but we rarely run that high to begin with and the alarm hasn't gone off in another 3500 engine hours. And if anyone else reading this has an older NT/Cummins with that same factory stock black, smooth fabric-like rubber-ish surface, wet-exhaust hose we had, I would strongly suggest you get yours checked ! As I documented in the article you will find in SENTOA's maintenance section ("Cummins Wet-Exhaust Elbow Issues on Early NT37's" - click on the picture to get to the 5 page article), that original black wet-exhaust hose had completely internally delaminated, fractured and failed !   It WAS NOT OBVIOUS from a casual external inspection.  We removed the hose only to facilitate inspection of that stock white Cummins wet-exhaust elbow which has resulted so many turbo failures on 6BT and 6BTA's as well as engine rebuilds.  We had no idea our wet-exhaust hose was so close to possibly sinking our boat.  Another naive "it has no moving parts, looks fine, it's not on Cummins suggested maintenance list, so it can't possibly need maintenance" issue. Again, Jason - good luck with the rest your project, hope everything else goes much easier. kind regards, Kelly BritzSandpiper, NT37-042, Edmonds/SeattleOn Sunday, December 26, 2021, 7:00:46 PM PST, hescher via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:  I am losing the wresting match. Miserably. Who has a trick for changing out the wet exhaust? 220 Cummins Diesel. 5inch metal reinforced. About 36 inches long. I am thinking of a grinder and hack saw? Cutting out some notches perhaps once I hack saw off the middle section? Also, does the replacement have to be metal reinforced? Jason ReschNordic TugHot Sauce32’Scappoose, Oregon_______________________________________________Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.orgTo unsubscribe send an email to  sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org_______________________________________________
Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
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