Cabinet/drawers
Good morning everyone,
I'm looking into converting the forward starboard galley cabinet (below the
single drawer) into two more big drawers like the bottom starboard drawer
aft of the oven in this picture.
Does anyone know how I would go about getting matching drawers/drawer
fronts? If all I can get is fronts I can make the boxes and slides. But
buying two of the bigger fronts, drawers, and slides would be ideal. And I
recognize that the space isn't identical to the one aft of the stove, but I
think I could manage.
While I'm on the subject of the galley, has anyone converted the black
plastic front on the refrigerator to wood? Is it possible to take the
trim/frame off and just swap out the plastic for teak veneer?
-Jonathan Handelman
Cyclops
Freeport, Maine
NT-37 #138
I can’t help you on the cabinet fronts but it did replace the fridge and freezer fronts. 2 bolts to remove the doors and then take out the 2 screws on the bottom trim. Then the panel will slide out. They are about 1/8” thick so you can probably cut a piece of teak veneer ply. I replaced my teak ones with magnetic stainless.
Paul Bulk
Crown Prince
Brentwood Bay, BC
32-191
On Sep 11, 2024, at 06:53, Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:
Good morning everyone,
I'm looking into converting the forward starboard galley cabinet (below the single drawer) into two more big drawers like the bottom starboard drawer aft of the oven in this picture.
Does anyone know how I would go about getting matching drawers/drawer fronts? If all I can get is fronts I can make the boxes and slides. But buying two of the bigger fronts, drawers, and slides would be ideal. And I recognize that the space isn't identical to the one aft of the stove, but I think I could manage.
While I'm on the subject of the galley, has anyone converted the black plastic front on the refrigerator to wood? Is it possible to take the trim/frame off and just swap out the plastic for teak veneer?
-Jonathan Handelman
Cyclops
Freeport, Maine
NT-37 #138
<NT37 galley.pdf>
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Hi Jonathan,
I recently purchased Nordic Tug 42 #115. I had a Braun trash compactor in the galley that no longer worked. I removed it and plan to replace it with a drawer above and a slide out trash bin container below. I am copying what other owner have done.
The tricky part is replicating the drawer front. I has a European style handle-less drawer pull. I Have purchased a router bit that may be able to replicate the pull. The two groves across the bottom of the drawer appear to be 1/8" groves cut on the table saw.
I am going to attempt to replicate the drawer fronts shortly. I purchased 3/4" teak for the drawer front for $200. I am going to practice using 3/4" Popular.
Let's stay in touch. If I am successful I may be able to help you.
Phil Garrett
Barlavento
Boat: Palm Coast FL
Me: Newport Beach CA
NT 42 #115
Phil,
I was hoping someone from Nordic Tug would chime in and offer the parts ready to go, but it will probably come down to me making the drawers myself, particularly since I may need custom sizes. Please keep me updated about your progress and any tips you learn along the way. Teak is such a nice wood to work with, aside from the cost!
Jonathan
On Sep 11, 2024, at 10:48 PM, Philip Garrett via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:
Hi Jonathan,
I recently purchased Nordic Tug 42 #115. I had a Braun trash compactor in the galley that no longer worked. I removed it and plan to replace it with a drawer above and a slide out trash bin container below. I am copying what other owner have done.
The tricky part is replicating the drawer front. I has a European style handle-less drawer pull. I Have purchased a router bit that may be able to replicate the pull. The two groves across the bottom of the drawer appear to be 1/8" groves cut on the table saw.
I am going to attempt to replicate the drawer fronts shortly. I purchased 3/4" teak for the drawer front for $200. I am going to practice using 3/4" Popular.
Let's stay in touch. If I am successful I may be able to help you.
Phil Garrett
Barlavento
Boat: Palm Coast FL
Me: Newport Beach CA
NT 42 #115
Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
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I am looking for the same drawer front.
Richard Cohen
508-265-7277
Typed with my thumbs and voice to text, please excuse any typos and the brevity.
From: Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2024 11:47:21 PM
To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA) sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Cc: Jonathan Handelman jonathan.handelman@gmail.com
Subject: [Sentoa] Re: Cabinet/drawers
Phil,
I was hoping someone from Nordic Tug would chime in and offer the parts ready to go, but it will probably come down to me making the drawers myself, particularly since I may need custom sizes. Please keep me updated about your progress and any tips you learn along the way. Teak is such a nice wood to work with, aside from the cost!
Jonathan
On Sep 11, 2024, at 10:48 PM, Philip Garrett via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:
Hi Jonathan,
I recently purchased Nordic Tug 42 #115. I had a Braun trash compactor in the galley that no longer worked. I removed it and plan to replace it with a drawer above and a slide out trash bin container below. I am copying what other owner have done.
The tricky part is replicating the drawer front. I has a European style handle-less drawer pull. I Have purchased a router bit that may be able to replicate the pull. The two groves across the bottom of the drawer appear to be 1/8" groves cut on the table saw.
I am going to attempt to replicate the drawer fronts shortly. I purchased 3/4" teak for the drawer front for $200. I am going to practice using 3/4" Popular.
Let's stay in touch. If I am successful I may be able to help you.
Phil Garrett
Barlavento
Boat: Palm Coast FL
Me: Newport Beach CA
NT 42 #115
Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
To unsubscribe send an email to sentoa-leave@lists.sentoa.org
Our experience in the PNW, where NTs are built, is that such post-delivery
cabinet work is commonly done by outside cabinet makers. Any reasonably
skilled cabinet craftsman can fabricate exactly what you want.
On our NT42-078, we removed the trash compactor and had a shelved cabinet
with frame and panel installed.
On Sep 12, 2024, at 6:25 AM, Richard Cohen via Sentoa <
sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote:
I am looking for the same drawer front.
Richard Cohen
508-265-7277
Typed with my thumbs and voice to text, please excuse any typos and the
brevity.
From: Jonathan Handelman via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2024 11:47:21 PM
To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA) <
sentoa@lists.sentoa.org>
Cc: Jonathan Handelman jonathan.handelman@gmail.com
Subject: [Sentoa] Re: Cabinet/drawers
Phil,
I was hoping someone from Nordic Tug would chime in and offer the parts
ready to go, but it will probably come down to me making the drawers
myself, particularly since I may need custom sizes. Please keep me updated
about your progress and any tips you learn along the way. Teak is such a
nice wood to work with, aside from the cost!
Jonathan
On Sep 11, 2024, at 10:48 PM, Philip Garrett via Sentoa <
sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote:
Hi Jonathan,
I recently purchased Nordic Tug 42 #115. I had a Braun trash compactor in
the galley that no longer worked. I removed it and plan to replace it with
a drawer above and a slide out trash bin container below. I am copying what
other owner have done.
The tricky part is replicating the drawer front. I has a European style
handle-less drawer pull. I Have purchased a router bit that may be able to
replicate the pull. The two groves across the bottom of the drawer appear
to be 1/8" groves cut on the table saw.
I am going to attempt to replicate the drawer fronts shortly. I purchased
3/4" teak for the drawer front for $200. I am going to practice using 3/4"
Popular.
Let's stay in touch. If I am successful I may be able to help you.
Phil Garrett
Barlavento
Boat: Palm Coast FL
Me: Newport Beach CA
NT 42 #115
Sentoa mailing list -- sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
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Hi Jonathan and Richard,
I was able to make a drawer front. My drawer front is 13 1/8” wide x 5 1/2” tall x 3/4” thick. I have attached a photo.
Here is the Whiteside 6024 Drawer Pull Router Bit I used to create the recessed pull: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2AHMO?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
I used a 3/4” Forstner bit to rough out the hole for the pull. I then used a router guide bushing and template to route the pull. The difficult part was making the template to guide the router bit. I set the router bit depth so that the shoulder of the bit is flush with, or very slightly above, the drawer front. I am not sure this is how Nordic Tug routed the pulls but it seems like a very close approximation. I then cut the two parallel groves near the bottom of the drawer front on the table saw.
Now that the template is finished, I can create a door front in less than an hour.
I am willing to try making drawer fronts for you, if you will pay for the teak and shipping. Alternatively, as Steve suggested, it may be cheaper and easier to find a local cabinet maker to do the entire job using the Whiteside 6024 Drawer Pull Router Bit.
Phil
Hey there Philip—nice work!
I asked Dennis about this the other day (he ran the woodshop at Nordic Tugs for about 14 years, if memory serves), and here’s his response:
"It takes a special bit and a plunge router with a custom template to do those recessed pulls. The bit has a 1/2” shank and looks kinda like a ball. Try to envision the profile of the pull if you cut through it. The front is placed in the template and you lower the bit down in the center of where you want the pull and then follow the preset perimeter to get the full handle.”
So I’d say you nailed it, other than the plunge router vs. Forstner bit part—I’ve had good success with the Festool mid-size plunge router—that thing is more like a scalpel than a woodworking tool.
Thanks for sharing your success—it looks really great! Another time I’ll share pics of a few doors Dennis made for me—most notably to replace the roll-up thumb-crusher doors at the pantry behind the driver seat and at the storage behind the passenger seat. I added Soss polished stainless hinges which add a nice touch.
Ben
On Sep 22, 2024, at 22:12, Philip Garrett via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:
Hi Jonathan and Richard,
I was able to make a drawer front. My drawer front is 13 1/8” wide x 5 1/2” tall x 3/4” thick. I have attached a photo.
Here is the Whiteside 6024 Drawer Pull Router Bit I used to create the recessed pull: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2AHMO?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
I used a 3/4” Forstner bit to rough out the hole for the pull. I then used a router guide bushing and template to route the pull. The difficult part was making the template to guide the router bit. I set the router bit depth so that the shoulder of the bit is flush with, or very slightly above, the drawer front. I am not sure this is how Nordic Tug routed the pulls but it seems like a very close approximation. I then cut the two parallel groves near the bottom of the drawer front on the table saw.
Now that the template is finished, I can create a door front in less than an hour.
I am willing to try making drawer fronts for you, if you will pay for the teak and shipping. Alternatively, as Steve suggested, it may be cheaper and easier to find a local cabinet maker to do the entire job using the Whiteside 6024 Drawer Pull Router Bit.
Phil
<DrawerFront25.jpg>_______________________________________________
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Phil
Thanks for the update and the picture, it looks great. We decided to try a different direction. We have removed the trash compactor to find that there is no outboard side wall or complete floor. I am planning to make sides, a floor, and shelves out of ½ plywood and have ordered a 13”x30” glass front cabinet into which we will put a piece of smoked plexiglass to match the cabinet doors on the “entertainment center” in the aft port side of the salon. As we could not find anyone offering teak doors we went with ash. The hope is that with some creative stain work, the narrow stiles/no wide panel and the buried location we can get close enough for it to look OK against the rest of the teak, we shall see. I will send pictures once the pieces are all in.
Richard Cohen
Managing Partner
BOSTONhttp://www.bostoncio.com/CIO http://www.bostoncio.com/
BostonCIO LLC
(508) 265-7277tel:(508)%20265-7277
RCohen@BostonCIO.commailto:rcohen@bostoncio.com
Facebookhttps://www.facebook.com/BostonCIO-LLC-209170469076/ | LinkedInhttps://www.linkedin.com/company/bostoncio-llc
From: Philip Garrett via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2024 1:12 AM
To: sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
Cc: philiplgarrett@live.com
Subject: [Sentoa] Re: Cabinet/drawers
Hi Jonathan and Richard,
I was able to make a drawer front. My drawer front is 13 1/8” wide x 5 1/2” tall x 3/4” thick. I have attached a photo.
Here is the Whiteside 6024 Drawer Pull Router Bit I used to create the recessed pull: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2AHMO?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
I used a 3/4” Forstner bit to rough out the hole for the pull. I then used a router guide bushing and template to route the pull. The difficult part was making the template to guide the router bit. I set the router bit depth so that the shoulder of the bit is flush with, or very slightly above, the drawer front. I am not sure this is how Nordic Tug routed the pulls but it seems like a very close approximation. I then cut the two parallel groves near the bottom of the drawer front on the table saw.
Now that the template is finished, I can create a door front in less than an hour.
I am willing to try making drawer fronts for you, if you will pay for the teak and shipping. Alternatively, as Steve suggested, it may be cheaper and easier to find a local cabinet maker to do the entire job using the Whiteside 6024 Drawer Pull Router Bit.
Phil