Greetings,
I'm the new owner of 32-289 (a 2007). I'm having trouble finding the
battery isolator to verify my inverter battery charger and battery charger
are wired correctly.
From Dave at the factory, I got a 2005 Operator's Manual and a 2008
Operator's Manual. Both say the inverter battery charger should be wired to
the post on the isolator leading to the house battery bank and the battery
charger should be wired to the posts on the isolator leading to the start
battery and bow battery bank.
But, I can't find anything that looks like an isolator. Above the fresh
and washdown pumps I have two solenoids and a combiner but not sure if this
setup takes the place of the isolator.
Does anyone with a similar vintage 32 have a picture / location of the
isolator?
I haven't attempted to trace the alternator wiring to try and find the
isolator downstream of that, but that's my next step.
Thanks in advance,
Ryan
Ryan, my 2006 NT32 has the battery isolator wired to the battery charger. I’m enclosing a picture of the setup from the original pictures provided by NT during the boat build. The isolator is the blue finned component, wired to the yellow Xantrex battery charger. It’s a West Marine Model 389791, and no longer available. It’s actually a Charles Industries isolator, model 93-BI160/3-A. Charles bowed out of the marine electronic business in 2016. The factory pic is a little crooked and out of focus, but you can zoom in and see where they mounted the isolator.
John Baczek
NT32-266, Puffin
Watch Hill, RI
On my 2002 NT 32 the battery isolator is in the same position as in the photo. If your isolator is the original diode type isolator you should consider replacing it with a FET isolator. The diode type isolator is not as efficient as the FET type. The diode isolator has a voltage drop of approximately 0.7 volts versus the FET at 0.02 to 0.1 volts. This can make a big difference in the charging current available to charge your batteries. I replaced my original isolator with a Victron Argofet. It’s a quick and inexpensive upgrade.
Tony Torphy
NT 32-225
Snorri
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 15, 2024, at 10:53 AM, Puffin via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:
Oops, forgot the pic…
<IMG_2398.JPG>
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I want to second Anthony’s (Tony’s) recommendation. Diode isolators are bad/ old technology.. As well as their inherent voltage drop, they are prone to failure. The voltage drop may not seem like much, but it’s a significant issue when charging from your alternator. As Tony said, there’s a really simple/ easy solution. Replace it with the Victron Argoget FET isolator. And while you’re at it label the wires.
Some additional comments:
My 2005 NT 32-251 was wired as in the photo. When I started exploring the wiring I found some “interesting” issues:
As in the photo my boat had 3 outputs from the Xantrex battery charger going to the 3 battery bank posts on the isolator (1 post for each of the 3 battery banks: Engine, House and Bow Thruster). The prior owner had a boat yard install a Magnum 2000W inverter/charger, possibly to replace an original inverter/ charger. The boat yard appears to have followed the Magnum install instructions and wired the Magnum directly to the House bank. The effective result was that BOTH the original Xantrex charger and the new Magnum inverter/charger were charging the House bank. I removed the charge output from the Xantex to the House bank isolator post.
Most surprising in my exploration was to find that the charge wire from the isolator to the Bow Truster bank was on the same isolator post as the House Bank! This was definitely a WTF moment. The effect was those two banks (bow and house) were paralleled! I can only speculate why or when this was done. The story gets even more interesting (bizarre?) when I pulled the 2 Group 24 bow thruster batteries. Markings on them suggested they dated from the original owner and were probably at least 10-15 years old. Needless to say, I replaced them.
I rather enjoy electrical projects. My best advice is when in doubt draw a picture. As for sorting out wiring, cable ties are cheep and easy to replace. Don’t be afraid to cut some to help see where a wire goes.
~Tom Patterson
NT 32-251 (2005)
PACIFIC LOON
On Oct 15, 2024, at 08:19, Anthony Torphy via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:
On my 2002 NT 32 the battery isolator is in the same position as in the photo. If your isolator is the original diode type isolator you should consider replacing it with a FET isolator. The diode type isolator is not as efficient as the FET type. The diode isolator has a voltage drop of approximately 0.7 volts versus the FET at 0.02 to 0.1 volts. This can make a big difference in the charging current available to charge your batteries. I replaced my original isolator with a Victron Argofet. It’s a quick and inexpensive upgrade.
Tony Torphy
NT 32-225
Snorri
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 15, 2024, at 10:53 AM, Puffin via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org wrote:
Oops, forgot the pic…
<IMG_2398.JPG>
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Hi,
Returning the solution to the thread in case someone comes across this in
the future.
The attached picture is what I have on the forward starboard side engine
room bulkhead, I originally thought the center solenoid was just that, a
solenoid controlled by the Parallel switch on the dash. It looks the same
as the 'Start Solenoid' but, as it turns out, it's an ACR.
So, my inverter charges the house bank by being directly connected to it.
The 'House Battery' cable in the attached diagram is a red that runs to the
house bank positive. Charging voltage coming from the house bank to the
center ACR flows to both the Engine Battery and 'Bow Battery Link' ACR as
the center ACR is open due to the incoming charge voltage from the house
bank. House bank positive has: 1/ DC+ from inverter 2/ positive to DC panel
3/ red running to center ACR on bulkhead.
I assume, but will confirm, the engine alternator charges just the Engine
Battery. Charge voltage comes over the 'Engine Battery' cable on the 'Start
Solenoid'. It then flows to the 'Bow Battery Link' ACR and since the center
ACR is open, also the house batteries through the 'House Battery' cable.
Thanks to everyone who helped on an off-list.
[image: Screenshot 2025-01-06 at 10.26.27 AM.png]
-Ryan
On Tue, Oct 15, 2024 at 12:42 PM Tom Patterson via Sentoa <
sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote:
I want to second Anthony’s (Tony’s) recommendation. Diode isolators are
bad/ old technology.. As well as their inherent voltage drop, they are
prone to failure. The voltage drop may not seem like much, but it’s a
significant issue when charging from your alternator. As Tony said, there’s
a really simple/ easy solution. Replace it with the Victron Argoget FET
isolator. And while you’re at it label the wires.
Some additional comments:
My 2005 NT 32-251 was wired as in the photo. When I started exploring the
wiring I found some “interesting” issues:
As in the photo my boat had 3 outputs from the Xantrex battery charger
going to the 3 battery bank posts on the isolator (1 post for each of the 3
battery banks: Engine, House and Bow Thruster). The prior owner had a boat
yard install a Magnum 2000W inverter/charger, possibly to replace an
original inverter/ charger. The boat yard appears to have followed the
Magnum install instructions and wired the Magnum directly to the House
bank. The effective result was that BOTH the original Xantrex charger
and the new Magnum inverter/charger were charging the House bank. I
removed the charge output from the Xantex to the House bank isolator post.
Most surprising in my exploration was to find that the charge wire from
the isolator to the Bow Truster bank was on the same isolator post as the
House Bank! This was definitely a WTF moment. The effect was those two
banks (bow and house) were paralleled! I can only speculate why or when
this was done. The story gets even more interesting (bizarre?) when I
pulled the 2 Group 24 bow thruster batteries. Markings on them suggested
they dated from the original owner and were probably at least 10-15 years
old. Needless to say, I replaced them.
I rather enjoy electrical projects. My best advice is when in doubt draw a
picture. As for sorting out wiring, cable ties are cheep and easy to
replace. Don’t be afraid to cut some to help see where a wire goes.
~Tom Patterson
NT 32-251 (2005)
PACIFIC LOON
On Oct 15, 2024, at 08:19, Anthony Torphy via Sentoa <
sentoa@lists.sentoa.org> wrote:
On my 2002 NT 32 the battery isolator is in the same position as in the
photo. If your isolator is the original diode type isolator you should
consider replacing it with a FET isolator. The diode type isolator is not
as efficient as the FET type. The diode isolator has a voltage drop of
approximately 0.7 volts versus the FET at 0.02 to 0.1 volts. This can make
a big difference in the charging current available to charge your
batteries. I replaced my original isolator with a Victron Argofet. It’s a
quick and inexpensive upgrade.
Tony Torphy
NT 32-225
Snorri
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 15, 2024, at 10:53 AM, Puffin via Sentoa sentoa@lists.sentoa.org
wrote:
Oops, forgot the pic…
<IMG_2398.JPG>
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